posted on October 23, 2000 03:42:37 PM
I need help with identifying gabardine. I saw a man's jacket up for auction and listed as gabardine but the label reads rayon. I dont understand this. I'm getting interested in vintage fashions for resale but dont know how to describe and the material it is made of. Is there a book or a website that will help me. Thanks, Shirley
posted on October 23, 2000 06:44:44 PM
yep, many kinds of textiles can be identified two ways: with type of weave and with type of fiber. That's why you can have polyester satin and silk satin---both are satin weave but different materials make up that weave. You could also have wool gabardine (the one I'm most familiar with) and other kinds of gabardine. Or you could have rayon velvet or silk velvet or polyester velvet. It sounds confusing, but it's just a matter of learning the difference between weave and fiber. Just about any older sewing book with lots of pictures should be able to make it clear to you. Or go to a fabric store and feel the labeled fabrics.
posted on October 24, 2000 06:20:06 PM
Most clothes that are referred to as gaberdine are either made of wool or rayon. It has a really nice soft feel and texture to it....also usually more expensive, but worth it. Alot of the clothes made in the 40's were gaberdine.
posted on October 24, 2000 06:54:26 PM
Actually, there's a lot of truly cheeesy poly gabaradine elastic-waist pull-on slacks on the market (as well as men's slacks by Sansabelt, security-guard uniform trousers, and navy "dress whites" ), and is also made of Tencel and blends of poly, wool, silk, and rayon - you name it (you can even get "chinos" in cotton gabardine). And depending on the quality it can be stiff as a board, or drape beautifully (and not wrinkle).
Anyway, here's a VERY magnified view of the weave:
And a couple samples of fabric:
[ edited by HartCottageQuilts on Oct 24, 2000 06:55 PM ]
posted on October 24, 2000 07:34:06 PM
While the subject is fabrics, I need to ask a question but I can't put it up as a pic. In the 60's a very popular curtain material was called ??????. I remember most people made kitchen curtains from it. It is beige background, with an occasional brown slub. Cotton and most people used rick rack with it. Stiff material. I have some printed with very bright orange and green print on it and some solid for the ruffle. I just CAN'T remember the name of the material. BIG senior moment.
posted on October 24, 2000 07:42:22 PM
Hopsacking sounds familiar, but I believe hopsacking was rather flimsy whereas this natural looking fabric is stiff.
posted on October 24, 2000 07:48:23 PM
HCQ, for some reason reading the word "Sansabelt" in your post made me snort with laughter. Not sure why except my dad used to wear Sansabelt slacks. That got me thinking of another gabardine thing: a friend and I were sitting around having a few glasses of wine and for kicks we started reading one of those cheesy "Harriet Harter" catalog (or some such name?) You know---those catalogs full of useless gadgets and ugly clothes. We came across an ad for "Polyester Gaberdine Slacks---Now With The Hollywood Waistline!" Years later I can still say something to her about the Hollywood Waistline and and we still crack up. So beware of gaberdine with the Hollywood waistline. Wool gaberdine on the other hand, is nice, and wears like iron (as my grandmother used to say).
posted on October 24, 2000 07:51:56 PM
Sansabelt always makes me laugh, too. When I married my second husband I had to clean out his closet with all the 'leisure suits' and the sansabelt pants. He was a former coach and Principal. I 'melted' all his clothes and his son's christmas tree in a big glob in the back yard. I was in trouble. Esp. as I ran over the dog twice, too. Never thought this marriage would last 17 years!
posted on October 25, 2000 04:29:51 AMas I ran over the dog twice, too
On two different dates, or one occasion (as in backing over, then saying "oh jeezus" and pulling forward, only to squash the hound again)? BTW, the reason it's lasted 17 years is he knows how lucky he is to have "caught" you even though he was wearing Sansabelts!. You obviously can see past the cover to the book, and he knows what a gem you are.
The catalog, brightid, is "Harriet Carter." I know because we get a full range of catalogs every day - everything from Nieman-Marcus to Fingerhut, Harry and David to Swiss Colony, athletic gear to "medical supplies" (Velcro shoes and Depends). I don't think they've got our "niche" figured out yet
posted on October 25, 2000 07:55:05 AM
Sorry, I don't know how to activate these links on here but we have found these two sites to be helpful.
http://www.hollandandsherry.com/textileguide/fabrics.html (a men's clothing line with descriptions and pics)
http://www.textilerooms.com/ (Click on "Technical"
My best source: Sybil. My 80 year old neighbor. Get you one! (My Mama-sita, a seamstress/tailor, would have absolutely loved my working with vintage clothes and been a great source of info. I sure miss her.)
Are we back to barkcloth on the kitchen curtain fabric?
posted on October 25, 2000 07:59:41 PM
HCQ, this is a late reply, but you hit the nail on the head twice in one post! Too smart! Yes, the cloth is the osnasburg, and yes, that's exactly what happened to the dog. I was almost late for work and had to get Sansabelt out of bed and come hold his dying dog while I scratched out of the drive.
