Specifications:

• This Bracket Mount is constructed from quality aluminum alloy
• This high quality bracket mount aiming fit for all M16 and other long and short guns
• The Best bracket mount is easy mounts and separation
• The Bracket Mount for M16 Gun is satisfied with the most demanding customer
• You can trust the high quality and performance of the S8635 Aluminum Alloy Torchlight Bracket Mount
• Material: Aluminum Alloy
• Caliber: 30mm/1.18in  

Details:

• Fit for all M16 and other long and short guns
• Constructed from quality aluminum alloy, Solid construction, aluminum alloy shell

• This high quality Bracket Mount aiming fit for all M16 and other long and short guns, easy mounts and separation

• The Best bracket mount is satisfied with the most demanding customer. This Bracket Mount is very stable and easy to use

• The mounting design gives 360 rotation
• This Bracket Mount for M16 Gun permits mounting on a flat deck surface or on the side of a gunnel or transom

Construction:

• For maximum strength and stability, most photographic tripods are braced around a center post, with collapsible telescoping legs and a telescoping section at the top that can be raised or lowered. At the top of the tripod is the head, which includes the camera mount (usually a detachable plate with a thumbscrew to hold onto the camera), several joints to allow the camera to pan and tilt, and usually a handle to allow the operator to do so without jostling the camera. Some tripods also feature integrated remote controls to control a camcorder or camera, though these are usually proprietary to the company that built the camera

Variations:

• There are several types of tripod. The least expensive, generally made of aluminium tubing and costing less than US$100, is used primarily for consumer still and video cameras; these generally come with an attached head and rubber feet. The head is very basic, and often not entirely suitable for smooth panning of a camcorder. A common feature, mostly designed for still cameras, allows the head to flip sideways 90 degrees to allow the camera to take pictures in portrait format rather than landscape. Often included is a small pin on front of the mounting screw that is used to stabilize camcorders. This is not found on the more expensive photographic tripods
• More expensive tripods are sturdier, stronger, and usually come with no integrated head. The separate heads allow a tripod-head combination to be customized to the photographer's needs. There are expensive carbon fiber tripods, used for applications where the tripod needs to be lightweight. Many tripods, even some relatively inexpensive ones, also include leveling indicators for the legs of the tripod and the head
• Many of the more expensive tripods have additional features, such as a reversible center post so that the camera may be mounted between the legs, allowing for shots from low positions, and legs that can open to several different angles
• Small tabletop tripods (sometimes called tablepods) are also available, ranging from relatively flimsy models costing less than US$20, to professional models that can cost up to $800 USD and can support up to 68 kg (150 lb). They are used in situations where a full sized tripod would be too bulky to carry. An alternative is a clamp-pod, which is a ball head attached to a C-clamp

• Another is actually made of string. Forming a triangle with the two feet of the photographer and linking to the camera. This negative string tripod, can give up to three stops

Heads:

• The head is the part of the tripod that attaches to the camera and allows it to be aimed. It may be integrated into the tripod, or a separate part. There are generally two different types of heads available

• A ball head utilizes a ball and socket joint to allow movement of all axes of rotation from a single point. Some ball heads also have a separate panoramic rotation axis on the base of the head. The head has two main parts, the ball, which attaches to the camera and the socket, which attaches to the tripod. The camera is attached to the ball via quick release plate, or a simple 1/4"-20 screw. The socket is where the ball rotates in, and also contains the controls for locking the ball. The socket has a slot on the side, to allow the camera to be rotated to the portrait orientation. Ball heads come in varying styles of complexity. Some have only one control for both ball and pan lock. While others have individual controls for the ball, pan, and also ball friction. Ball heads are used when a free-flow movement of the camera is needed. They are also more stable, and can hold heavier loads, than pan-tilt heads. However, ball heads have the disadvantage that only one control is available to allow or prevent movement of all axes of rotation, so if the camera is tilted on one axis, there may be risk of tilting on the other axes as well. When movement of one, or two axes or rotation is needed, a pan-tilt head is used

• The pan-tilt head has separate axes and controls for tilting and panning, so that a certain axis can be controlled without risk of affecting the other axes. These heads come in two types, 2-way and 3-way. 2-way heads have 2 axes and controls, one for panoramic rotation, and one for front tilt. 3-way heads have 3 axes and controls, one for panoramic rotation, front tilt, and lateral tilt. The controls on these heads, are usually handles that can be turned, to loosen or tighten the certain axis. This allows movement in one, a few, or none of the axes. When movement of all axes of rotation is needed, a ball head is used. There are some pan-tilt heads that use gears, for precision control of each axis. This is helpful for some types of photography, such as macro photography
• Other head types include the gimbal head, fluid head, gear head, alt-azimuth, and equatorial heads. Fluid heads and gear heads move very smoothly, avoiding the jerkiness caused by the stick-slip effect found in other types of tripod head. Gimbal heads are single-axis heads used in order to allow a balanced movement for camera and lenses. This proves useful in wildlife photography as well as in any other case where very long and heavy telephoto lenses are adopted: a gimbal head rotates a lens around its center of gravity, thus allowing for easy and smooth manipulation while tracking moving subjects

Monopod:

• In place of or to supplement a tripod, some photographers use a one-legged telescoping stand called a monopod for convenience in setup and breakdown. A monopod requires the photographer to hold the camera in place, but because the photographer no longer has to support the full weight of the camera, it can provide some of the same stabilization advantages as a tripod

Tripod Options:

• The easiest way to steady the camera is to place it on a tabletop or counter, this will give you a solid, unmoving base so you can keep the shutter open for longer periods of time. If you need something mobile, you can use an ironing board or a saw horse from the shop or garage to steady the camera. Another option is an inexpensive artist's easel that you can use, placing the camera where you would place the painting. A broomstick or mop handle unscrewed from the base can be modified to serve as a monopod. This will not give you the same steadiness as a the above options, and is not a good method for night shots, but it is highly mobile, easy to carry and work with outdoors (if you are taking nature shots, for example) and with care can provide a steady base for shots that are close to the 1/30 of a second range

How to Make a Camera Stand?

• Find the tripod or stand hole located on the bottom of your camera. Nearly all cameras have a threaded hole on the bottom designed to screw stands or tripods into
• Locate a screw that fits into the hole in the bottom of your camera. If you don't have a screw handy you should be able to find one easily at your local hardware store
• Fill the 2-liter bottle with water
• Drill a hole into the lid of the plastic bottle that matches the hole in the bottom of your camera. To do this make sure the drill bit you are using matches the size of the screw that fits into the hole in your camera
• Place the washer onto the screw and then insert the screw through the hole in the plastic bottle lid. Put the screw in from the bottom of the lid, so it screws upward instead of downward
• Screw the screw into the lid all the way until the head of the screw and the washer are tight against the bottom of the lid and the threaded end of the screw is protruding out of the top of the lid
• Screw your camera onto the protruding, threaded end of the screw in the plastic bottle lid. Turn the screw into the camera until the camera and the lid are securely fastened together
• Screw the lid with the camera attached onto the 2-liter plastic bottle. Once the lid is tightly screwed onto the bottle, the water in the bottle should support the camera and act as a reliable and sturdy stand

Package Included:

• 1 x S8635 Aluminum Alloy Bracket Mount