The creation process of Black Hills Gold jewelry begins with pure 24K gold.
It is alloyed with other metals for durability.
Gold and silver alloys with a small amount of copper tend to be 12K green gold.
Gold and copper tend to be 12K rose in color (some call it pink).
The traditional pink and green color gold used for leaves is created and the bars are prepared for rolling.
The alloyed gold bars are rolled by presses to different degrees of thickness for the various pieces of jewlery they are intended to create.
Essential parts are pain stakingly stamped, individually, out of the rolled gold sheets using various patterns and dies.
The gold leaves and other portions of the pattern are added to cast jewelry, which is created by "lost wax casting."
Lost wax casting starts with a metal model of a jewelry piece. A vulcanized rubber mold is made from the metal model. Hot wax is injected into the mold, creating a wax model of the piece.
The wax model is taken from the mold and mounted on a wax stem called a sprue, which creates an airway for casting. Casting plaster is poured around the wax pattern in a steel cylinder.
Once hardened, the cylinder is oven baked for several hours, causing the wax to completely melt away. The cavity left behind provides an exact duplicate of the piece and is filled with molten gold.
The cylinder is then placed in cold water, shattering the plaster, leaving behind only the gold jewelry.
These pieces are then ground and polished before adding the stamped portions.
The stamped portions are individually soldered by hand to the cast with karat gold solder.
The jewelry is then cleaned in a mild acid bath and then it is inspected for quality.
Then, electro-plate is added to the pieces with 24 Karat yellow gold.
(I believe that only one manufacturer adds the electro-plate. Those that do not, still use the wriggling process to create the frosty finish.)
Wriggling, one of the final process, removes the plating from the pink and green leaves, creating a textured or frosty effect.
Each intricate detail of the leaves are engraved by hand for a fabulous finish.
Polishing in several different steps is then done to bring out brilliant shine of the piece.
At this point, if the item has a gemstone, it will be set.
After careful inspection, the piece is ready for the public.
The familiar design is almost the same today as it was a century ago.
Today, each piece of Black Hills Gold Jewelry is manufactured through a series of up to 40 different steps and are necessary to capture the same dramatic detail.
Each tiny leaf or swirl is made with infinite care. The perfection of detail requires that artists spend from one to eight hours creating a single piece.
The exquisitely beautiful tri-color gold jewelry is hand made in Rapid City, South Dakota.
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Jewelry Casting - Lost Wax Castong - General Information
Black Hills Gold is created on a much larger scale but this will give you an idea about lost wax casting.
Part One
Part Two
Part Three
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More Than Grapes, Vines And Leaves!
The traditional design of Black Hills Gold is 12K pink and green gold leaves, 10K yellow gold grapevines and grape clusters.
Today, while keeping with tradition to some extent, there are new designs that keep Black Hills Gold exciting.
You will find roses, daisies, dolphins, dragonflies, butterlies, turtles and other interesting nature inspired designs.
In keeping with the heritage of South Dakota, you will also find desings that are inspired by the Dakota and Lakota people. This can range from feathers to dream catchers. All of which are highly detailed.
There are also many beautiful inspirational designs to chose from. Some incorporate roses and other features, creating beautifully dramatic effects.
Over the years, sterling silver was introduced. It makes Black Hills Gold more affordable, it appeals to those who prefer the silver color over gold and it adds a whole new look to the designs. Now, more people than ever before, adorn themselves with this lovely jewelry.
Black Hills Gold really is more than grapes, vines and leaves!
